AFRICASIAEURO - Travel : Niani -
Mali
Night
in the Savanna - Mali border
I
depart from Mandiana customs check point in the
afternoon, leaving the now familiar surroundings. The road
leads to Niani at the Malian frontier.
To my astonishment I find the road in much better condition than the ones I got used to since entering Guinea.
At 40-50 mph seems like a highway. A few checkpoints on the way, nothing spectacular, the usual 'pay 'n drive' method works well here.
The scenery has changed into Savanna now. Grasslands and scrubs, solitary Baobab trees, no more the dense tropical jungle.
Life in these areas is dreadful, no running water, no electricity, as in dark ages. People though can adapt to any condition that is put upon them.
We reach Niani at night close to 19 hours P.M. and my fuel is close to nil. Of course Niani, the border town must be having fuel, or so I think.
What I finally find is not the usual filling station. After crossing the town, which is not much of a settlement, I am directed to the 'station'.
I can not, somehow, forget this scene, it is another milestone on a long road through Africa. I find a petroleum lit grass hut, a crooked set of timber serve as poles, a straw covered roof.
To my astonishment I find the road in much better condition than the ones I got used to since entering Guinea.
At 40-50 mph seems like a highway. A few checkpoints on the way, nothing spectacular, the usual 'pay 'n drive' method works well here.
The scenery has changed into Savanna now. Grasslands and scrubs, solitary Baobab trees, no more the dense tropical jungle.
Life in these areas is dreadful, no running water, no electricity, as in dark ages. People though can adapt to any condition that is put upon them.
We reach Niani at night close to 19 hours P.M. and my fuel is close to nil. Of course Niani, the border town must be having fuel, or so I think.
What I finally find is not the usual filling station. After crossing the town, which is not much of a settlement, I am directed to the 'station'.
I can not, somehow, forget this scene, it is another milestone on a long road through Africa. I find a petroleum lit grass hut, a crooked set of timber serve as poles, a straw covered roof.
The Gaz is all filled up in beer
bottles of 0.7
ltrs, lined up in a row on front of the 'gas station'. If it were not
for the acute shortage, I would laugh at this, but now I realize I have
no choice, for after Niani there is a 100 miles nothing except bush and
unknown territory.
So I fill a 50 bottles of 'beer' gas, its price almost double inflated to the normal rate. I do not even want to look for food, for I know I have to continue to Mali tonight.
I leave, with a unforgettable memory in place. The evening brings some cool air, I sense the mighty river nearby. And when I reach the bonfire that is lit near the main road I recognize the Guinean border guards who camp here.
To describe this would take another chapter, however this is an entry / exit point and I must say the guards are the friendliest I ever found in Guinea.
The exit stamp in my passport, i carry on, the dark road passing through the middle of the bush, beside the river. Driving carefully in the dark, against my mentors advice, I focus my full attention on the rough road ahead of me. The Sankarani river, a tributary to the mighty Niger .
I can't see clearly, all is dark around
me, but to me it seems it is more a lake than a river. Floating gently,
but mightily. A build up to the mighty dam that feeds three quarters of
Mali with electricity, the Barrages de Selingui.
A gigantic project as I am to see later on. A premonition overcomes me I can't explain why, but I slow down my vehicle to a mere 10 mph. I cannot see the road ahead of me, and the high beams are not helping much either.
A gigantic project as I am to see later on. A premonition overcomes me I can't explain why, but I slow down my vehicle to a mere 10 mph. I cannot see the road ahead of me, and the high beams are not helping much either.
I notice the
concrete structure that stands in the dark was once a bridge crossing a
creek beneath. Now, the bridge has been washed away, and I am standing
6 meters over the creek that floats beneath under it.
In darkness, I maneuver the car back and find a diversion I passed minutes ago, leading to the creek's bottom.
In darkness, I maneuver the car back and find a diversion I passed minutes ago, leading to the creek's bottom.
Any ordinary vehicle
would not be
able to make it through the rough road, but I manage to cross
the
waters which aren't deep, surprisingly, and climb up the other side to
continue my journey.
The road turns to the left and leads into pure grassland, with bumps shaking us to the brink. In the distance a see a shimmering light, a line decorated with obsolete plastic carrier bags in all colors indicate a further check point.
No one in sight, we are in the middle of Savanna land. I blow my horn. It is 20 hours and I still have to make headway. A few minutes later a customs guy appears and tells me the border is closed for tonight.
His uniform indicates that we have reached the Malian customs. I 'beg', a common way of getting things done in these parts, to let me pass, as I have pressing business in Bamako.
After consultation for which he disappears back into the dark, he reappears and removes the rope, lined with used PE shopping bags of all colors, serving as 'barrier'. After crossing the line and following him, he leads us to a shelter build from grass, roots and pieces of logs.
The road turns to the left and leads into pure grassland, with bumps shaking us to the brink. In the distance a see a shimmering light, a line decorated with obsolete plastic carrier bags in all colors indicate a further check point.
No one in sight, we are in the middle of Savanna land. I blow my horn. It is 20 hours and I still have to make headway. A few minutes later a customs guy appears and tells me the border is closed for tonight.
His uniform indicates that we have reached the Malian customs. I 'beg', a common way of getting things done in these parts, to let me pass, as I have pressing business in Bamako.
After consultation for which he disappears back into the dark, he reappears and removes the rope, lined with used PE shopping bags of all colors, serving as 'barrier'. After crossing the line and following him, he leads us to a shelter build from grass, roots and pieces of logs.
The papers I am
asked to submit. He disappears into the hut, and I wait. 5 minutes, 10
minutes pass. After 15 minutes I follow him and see three customs
officials inspecting my 'International vaccination card'.
I am asked if all my vaccinations are in order, which I confirm. Something they must find, and in my case they ask me for a valid 'Vaccination contre Meningitis' as you guess right the vaccination against Meningitis is what delays my departure.
5000 CFA change their hands and I carry on through the night.
next episode : night in the bush
I am asked if all my vaccinations are in order, which I confirm. Something they must find, and in my case they ask me for a valid 'Vaccination contre Meningitis' as you guess right the vaccination against Meningitis is what delays my departure.
5000 CFA change their hands and I carry on through the night.
next episode : night in the bush
About This Blog
Moringa, Travel and work on three continents
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