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May 29
Mandiana - Niani - Mali border
Tags: guinea, niani,
sankarani river, river niger, mandiana, eastern guinea, road to bamako
.I depart from Mandiana customs check point in the
afternoon and hit the road towards
Niani . Without a proper map (as there is none) the road is
not clearly marked, especially its condition. To my astonishment I find
it in much better condition than the ones I got used to since entering
Guinea. At 40-50 mph this seems a real highway to me. A few checkpoints
on the way, nothing spectacular, the usual 'pay 'n drive' method works
well here.
The scenery has changed into complete Savannah now. Grasslands and
scrubs, solitary Baobab
trees, but no more the dense tropical jungle. Life in these areas is
dreadful, no running water, no electricity, as in dark ages. People
though can adapt to any condition that is put upon them. We reach Niani
at night close to 19 hours P.M. and my fuel is close to nil. Of course
Niani, the border town must be having fuel, or so I think.
What I finally find is not the usual filling station. After crossing
the town, which is not much of a settlement, I am directed to the
'station'. I can not somehow forget this scene, it is another milestone
on a long road through Africa. I find a petroleum lit grass hut,
crooked stems serve as poles, a straw covered roof. The fuel is all
filled in beer bottles of 0.7 ltrs, lined up in a row on front of the
'gas station'. If it were not for the acute shortage, I would laugh at
this, but now I realize I have no choice, for after Niani there is a
100 miles nothing except bush and unknown territory. So I fill a 50
bottles of 'beer' gas, its price almost double inflated to the normal
rate. I do not even want to look for food, for I know I have to
continue to Mali tonight.
So I leave, with a unforgettable memory in place. The evening brings
some cool air, I sense the mighty river nearby. And when I reach the
bonfire that is lit near the main road I recognize the Guinean border
guards who camp here. To describe this would take another chapter,
however this is an entry / exit point and I must say the guards are the
friendliest I ever found in Guinea.
The exit stamp in my passport, i carry on, the dark road passing
through the middle of the bush, beside the river. Driving carefully in
the dark, against my mentors advice, I focus my full attention on the
rough road ahead of me. The river
Sankarani . I cant see, as it is dark, but to me it
is more a lake than a river. Floating gently, but mightily. A build up
to the mighty dam that feeds three quarters of Mali with electricity,
the Barrage de Selingui.
A gigantic project as I am to see later on. A premonition overcomes me
I can't explain why, but I slow down my vehicle to a mere 10 mph. I
cannot see the road ahead of me, and the high beams are not helping
much either. I notice the concrete structure that stands in the dark
was once a bride crossing a creek beneath. Now, the bridge has been
washed away, and I am standing 6 meters over the creek that floats
beneath under it. In the darkness I maneuver the car back and find a
diversion I passed minutes ago, leading to the creek's bottom.
The normal type of vehicle would not be able to drive through this
makeshift road, but I manage to cross the waters which aren't deep
surprisingly and climb up the other side to continue my journey. The
road turns to the left and leads into pure grassland, with bumps
shaking us to the brink. In the distance a see a shimmering light, a
line decorated with obsolete plastic carrier bags in all colors
indicate a further check point.
No one in sight, in the middle of the Savannah. I blow my horn. It is
now 20 hours and I still have to make headway, I force myself. After a
few minutes a customs guy appears and tells me the border is closed for
tonight, from his uniform I can see we have reached the Malian customs.
I beg, a common way of getting things done in these parts, to let me
pass, as I have pressing business in Bamako.
After consultation for which he disappears back into the dark, he
reappears and removes the rope that serves as a barrier. We cross the
line and follow him, guiding us to a shelter build from grass, roots
and pieces of logs. The papers I am asked to submit. He disappears into
the hut, and I wait. 5 minutes, 10 minutes pass. After 15 minutes I
follow him and see three customs officials inspecting my 'international
vaccination card'.
I am asked if all my vaccinations are in order, which I confirm.
Something they must find, and in my case they ask me for a valid
'Vaccination contre Meningitis' as you guess right the vaccination
against Meningitis is what delays my departure. 5000 CFA change their
hands and I carry on through the night.
next episode : night in the bush
Beyla to Kankan, the morning after
Tags: Kankan, Beyla, Cotton Gin, Hotel Bate, Guinea ,Beyla to Kankan
Beyla to Kankan.
In a world without rules except that of nature we must expect anything. The morning we leave the area of Beyla we face the next stretch of bad road, and see the same old scenery of rain forest, by now a regular sight. Long, unbelievable potholes slow us down and make our journey a hell, once again. My heart always jumps at the sight of a pothole which is as large as a swimming pool, though not as deep, which turns out to be our Savior. We make it slowly through the forests, the roads in unbelievable condition, slightly better than in Roman times. Sometimes driving at 10 mph, I think how long it will take me to reach Kankan, today's final destination. No time to stop for a rest, just to get out of this jungle is my only thought, for I am slowly but steadily getting tired of this menacing place. I cannot see the beauty of the forest, the sometimes appearing rice paddies. It is getting stale to my eyes, I am possessed by one thought, to get out finally and find my truck and passengers.
I reach the French Cotton plantation with the ginnery in the afternoon and I know that I am not far from my destination. Another checkpoint at the entrance of Kankan, this time much more subtle than in the southern part of the country. Tired and completely slugged out I pay and pass through till I enter the city of Kankan, the largest in the north of Guinea.
At the time the Renault truck left its home, one agreement was struck. When nothing is heard for 3 weeks - meet us in Kankan. Neither knew anything about the city, the sheer size would indicate that some facilities are available. A decent Hotel, shower, AC, this is what I long for after days of driving through uninhabitable territory. Sometimes you feel like an explorer, for many hours not a soul on the road. What a view to see people, moving in cars, going after their business, shops, marketenders, the whole lot. Joy comes up and the thought of a hot bath does the rest.
When I roll into the town, I am overcome by some deja vu. No one can explain this. And I know that in this remote city I will come across something that I expect to find here. The exhaust system has suffered greatly on the road, and during the last 100 km a bolder has ripped of the muffler. The sound of the car is like a stockcar in the great price of Indiana. I find the first mechanic welder and he does the job in minutes. When I ask for directions to the next hotel, I am guided through the city's only main road. Hotel Bate is not far away, I am told.
The main square comes close, and I slow down instinctively, as always to be watchful not to hit anyone crossing the dusty main street, a self protecting measure. For the unlucky one that hits a jaywalker could be lynched if he is unlucky. My luck has brought me through all the perils and dangers one can face. I search the streets carefully, the roads to see a familiar face. Nothing has crossed my eyes so far. When we reach the main communication center with the telecom office and huge transmission tower, I suddenly hear my name being shouted from across the street, the familiar voice is all to known. I have found my employee who comes to me and hugs me like a long lost brother, and I can understand the emotion. Finally we are reunited, after nearly 4 weeks of uncertainty, anxious moments have come to an end. We are in Kankan, Guinea, after all, the city where we have planned to meet....
Next : The relaxation, and retrieval of the vehicle.....
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