Train Crossing, Kanpur, U.P.
Mumbai is one of the largest cities. During the day, the streets are bustling with activity, car fumes, constant pollution, and overwhelming traffic jams—none of which are particularly pleasant surprises in this overcrowded metropolis.
Airport and Flight
Jet Airways, as usual, is delayed. Modi-Luft has just taken off to an unknown destination. Inside the airport, I observe frantic scenes—passengers rushing, flexing their egos at airline counters. In Indian airports, it’s normal to see everyone play the tycoon. With 1.3 billion people, it’s survival of the loudest.
Three hours late, we finally take off. The 737-300 Extended is headed to Lucknow with a quick stop in Delhi. We land at 3 PM. My contact is a no-show. Lucknow airport, not being international, offers limited amenities. No currency exchange, and taxi touts swarm instantly.
Journey to Kanpur
After feigning disinterest, I manage to find a fair deal with a quiet Fiat driver. On the way to Kanpur, we stop at a communication center to call my contact. He instructs the driver to take me to Kanpur directly. As we drive, I witness Lucknow’s bustling markets, saree shops, and the usual sacred cows dominating traffic.
The 45°C heat is intense. A thermometer on a public building confirms it. After three hours, we arrive in Kanpur. My hotel, towering thirty floors high, is a stark contrast to the low-rise city. Red kites circle above, soaring on thermals. I cool off in the room, waiting to meet Mr. Rakesh, the company representative.
Dinner and Kanpur Temple
Mr. Rakesh is gracious and apologetic. We dine at a local restaurant: baby naans, Navratan Korma, and Rogan Josh—a true Indian feast. The Indian kitchen truly ranks among the world’s best.
The Railway Crossing
Later, we reach a railway crossing. The barrier lowers, bells ringing, but people continue crossing, undeterred by the imminent danger. A family on a scooter and a man with a bicycle pass inches from a train speeding at over 100 mph. Miraculously, no one is hurt, but I’m left breathless. Mr. Rakesh is unfazed—this is normal here. The sense of karma is palpable.
The Temple of Rats
At the famous Hindu temple in Kanpur, shoes are left at the entrance. The temple is home to rats—hundreds of them—sacred and well-fed. Despite the infestation, the temple is a masterpiece of white marble and devotion. Inside, worshippers pray, light incense, and donate for the upkeep of the rats. The contrast between the temple’s luxury and the outside poverty is striking.
Kanpur, with its sensory overload, chaotic charm, and deeply spiritual layers, will remain etched in my memory forever.